In Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur, sun-ripened produce—from olives to aubergines—takes center stage.
It is true that the south of France is full of clichés. Every hour, the light transforms, giving even the most basic pleasures a beautiful quality. In late summer, there are outdoor markets where sun-ripened vegetables is sold, and there’s the sound of cicadas, which is both pleasantly soothing and noisy. Acres of sunflowers, lavender, and olive trees stretch out, and cliffs descend into azure coves. What about the food? From figs and Provençal melons to crunchy panisse (fries made from chickpea flour) and rotisserie chicken, it satisfies every expectation. Not to mention the enormous assortment of regional cheeses and fresh seafood from the coasts and rivers.
In addition to being the French vacation destination, Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur in the southeast is also the destination for hordes of Europeans seeking summertime vacations and trying to pass for French.
It may seem to tourists like a homogeneous dream country, but in reality, there is a great deal of variety there. Its borders are the French Mediterranean to the south and the snow-capped Southern Alps to the north. Its eastern boundary is the Italian border, and its western boundary is the Rhône River. Pine forests, rivers, and the Camargue plains and marshes, home to highly valued goods like the aromatic, nutty Camargue red rice and the finishing salt fleur de sel, are all found inside its boundaries.
The cuisine of the area is primarily prepared at home and is a direct reflection of these landscapes. Local flavors, which steer clear of the technique-heavy meals associated with French haute cuisine, are bright, fresh, and generally unadorned, translating the region’s terroir onto the plate. And while there are many Provençal recipes that embody this specific charm, some great places to start are with tapenade, which is a spread made with olives, capers, and anchovies, pissaladière, which is a pastry with savory toppings, and ratatouille.
Rebekah Peppler’s book Le Sud: Recipes from Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur served as an inspiration. Published for £26 by Chronicle Books.